Despite visiting Copenhagen several times already, this year’s adventure proved to be outstanding for many reasons.
Four of us boarded our DB (Deutsche Bahn) train for Copenhagen from Hamburg, Germany on May 15th, 2024. We were delighted to find we had our own private compartment for the 4 ½ hour train excursion. No ferry ride any longer ( defunct as of 2020), but the scenery is nice and the tracks are smooth. Our tickets were $54 USD each for the one way trip.
Once you pull into Copenhagen Central, you immediately get a sense that you have truly “arrived”. For our three night stay, I chose a hotel I’ve previously stayed in, The Absalon. The Art Deco themed hotel is located mere blocks from Central Station and offers great accommodations for a fair price. Phil, traveling on his own dime, chose the nearby CabInn and said the no frills inexpensive hotel was “just fine”.
My traveling friends, Irma and Adrienne, had not visited Copenhagen before. Son Phil visited family with me in March of 2017; but our visit was literally dampened by cool and rainy weather. We hoped for a bit of sunshine this visit.
What we got was simply - glorious!
The four of us had two full days in Copenhagen. The challenge became - how to see it all!
Meeting cousins in Tivoli Gardens our first night in the city proved to be the perfect start to our visit. Arriving one week before high season, we missed out on much of the musical offerings inside the park. On the flip side, because it wasn’t yet high season, we practically had the park to ourselves. The flowers, in full bloom, set a lovely stage for photo opportunities and the evening Illuminations show.
Dinner at Groften, located inside Tivoli, was delicious (albeit a bit pricey); however, being able to sit outside under the trees felt magical.
For our first full day, we bought tickets for the Hop On- Hop Off Bus. Actually, it was Phil who bought the tickets for the four of us.
Travelers Tip: At the Hop On Hop Off ticket kiosk, we learned that no American bank cards were accepted. Fortunately, using Phil’s Dutch bank card, we were able to purchase our tickets. My tip - buy online before you arrive.
During our day, we admired the Little Mermaid, walked the perimeter of Fort Kastellet, toured Rosenborg Castle (where the National Treasury is kept), zipped through the Botanical Gardens, and watched as Phil climbed to almost 300 feet, via the exterior steps of the stunning golden spire at the Church of Our Saviour.
We celebrated Adrienne’s birthday at Maple Casual Dining. I can’t say enough good things about this gem of a restaurant.
Travelers Tip: If you wish to dine at Maple Casual Dining, call early for a reservation and arrive on time so you won’t lose your table. Trust me, the Trip Advisor reviews are correct - this place is amazing!
The following morning, we booked a 2 hour "Walking Tour With a Local" via Viator. Our guide, Ariana, turned out to be an Argentinian architect. She proved "local" enough as she led us on a fascinating stroll around Central and Old Town Copenhagen. We learned quite a few things along our delightful walk such as:
The brand new subway (Metro) opened three years ago. To keep the central plaza’s historical importance and beauty intact, every brick and the large fountain were removed, stored and then perfectly reinstalled after the completion of the underground Metro stop. We are not talking about a small space either.
2. The oldest street in Copenhagen,Magstrade, features colorful tall buildings with windows literally covering the street side top to bottom.
The Danes know the importance of allowing as much natural light into their homes as possible given that the average time of daylight in January and February is around eight hours daily.
Denmark is way ahead of the American stance on equality. At Gammel Strand in Old Town there stands a large granite statue of a fisherwoman. Ariana explained that the rather stout woman holding a fish represents the Danish centuries old respect for women's important role in managing business, family and home affairs while the men were away fishing for long periods of time.
We saw the historic Round Tower, the Palace Changing of the Guard, and at my insistence visited the oldest tea shop in Copenhagen. A.C. Perch has been open since 1835. It’s so popular, there is often a line to get in.
Travelers Tip: If you appreciate a great cup of tea, visiting Perch Thehandel is a must do while in Copenhagen. It’s an experience all of its own and the tea -my tea loving friends say it's by far better than anything they have ever tasted.
Another family gathering capped off our marvelous adventure in Copenhagen.
When is a good time to visit?
Well, let me just put it this way. We girls departed Copenhagen before Phil by four hours on Saturday May 18th. Phil visited the art museum, Glyptoteket, before taking the train to the airport. Phil rated the museum as outstanding. He reported that while two days before, our Hop On, Hop Off Bus might have had 12 people riding at any given time on the entire double decker, by 1 pm on the 18th, the same bus passed, jam packed.
Travelers Tip: We learned that schools let out for the summer mid May and there is a Danish holiday during this time as well. If travel plans permit, plan your visit just before these two events. There is nothing like having a city to yourself in good weather.
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