Once in Europe, why not go big or go home? I chose to add on two more destinations after finishing our circuitous train ride through Switzerland. Where to go?
Looking at the world map, it made sense to take the NIghtJet sleeper train to Vienna, Austria; birthplace of my older brother Beau. My parents lived in Austria from the spring of 1956-1958 when my father worked for the CIA. Their lives in Austria became perilous during the days of the Hungarian Revolution. When my father, William E. Matthews published his autobiography Editor, Actor, Ballplayer, Spy in 2015. I finally learned more details about his escapades as a "Company Man".
None of us family members, or maybe many Americans for that matter, knew just how close Europe came to engaging in WWIII in the mid 50’s. While Russian troops killed thousands of Hungarian sympathizers who were demanding their freedom, war broke out in Egypt over the nationalization of the Suez Canal. My mother had to be ready at any moment to flee with my then two year old sister Lisa in case Russia invaded Austria as was feared.
My father Bill Matthews with his US "friendly" co-workers post WWII
Curious, I couldn’t wait to visit Vienna; a city where my father worked alongside WW2 heroes and spies from both sides of the war. My father writes in his book a rather interesting tale when his wife, Else, unknowingly chatted it up with a top ranking Russian spook during an embassy gala. Fortunately she didn’t know any secrets and the spy learned nothing after asking my beautiful mother in perfect English, “What business is your husband Bill in?”
The Night Jet is operated by the Austrian Federal Railways (OBB). Being a rail fan, I couldn’t wait to experience an overnight on their sleeper when traveling from Zurich, Switzerland to Vienna, Austria. The concierge at Pontresina’s Hotel Walther helped me with making our reservations to and from Vienna out of Zurich.
Traveler’s Tip: Somehow, Pete and I got booked in two entirely different types of sleeping accommodations for our round trip. Our outward bound room featured a private shower, slippers, a table and chairs, and fresh fruit and wine. Unexpectedly, for our return trip, our tiny sleeper was so small, I had to sit on the outer steps in the hallway to eat my take out dinner. Double check with your reservation agent to avoid surprises.
Pete in front of classical and a more modern Vienna
Vienna is a lovely city. My husband Pete and I strolled all day marveling at the astonishingly beautiful architecture. One of our best moves was to purchase tram tickets to get a comprehensive lay of the land while riding in comfort on a retro trolley. Home once to Mozart, Beethoven, Haydn, and Shubert, musical concerts are easy to find. We enjoyed an evening at the Schonbrunn Palace for a “touristy” meal consisting of salisbury steak, consomme and potatoes, and the emblematic apple strudel before attending a live classical music concert. Even if you are not a classical music fan, attending a live concert in Vienna is still an experience worth doing once.
Travelers Tip: Though dining at the palace sounded lovely, skip the meal.
Room decor at the Altstadt Hotel
I recommend the Altstadt Hotel though be advised, this hotel is not for the shy. Our spacious room filled with fun art and decor featured a large bath with a floor to ceiling window looking straight into the bedroom taking “what you see is what you get” to a whole different level. If you wish more bathroom privacy, this may not be the hotel room for you.
Travelers Tip: Vienna is filled with centuries of history. Before visiting, I highly recommend doing a bit of research. Arriving well informed can literally make the historical buildings come more alive.
After returning to Zurich on the Night Jet train , Pete and I flew back to Amsterdam (our round trip ticket to and from the US was based in the Netherlands). One last stop —-Delft. After my Dutch neighbor Joanna spoke of how charming Delft is, I planned an easy side trip before heading back to the states.
Son Phil snapping a canal pic in Delft
She proved correct. I simply can’t describe why, but there is something magical about Delft, famous for its blue and white delftware (similar but not the same as porcelain). Finding the city easily walkable, we marveled at the Oude Kerk’s crooked church steeple (listing two meters from vertical), Eastern Gate (see the travel magnet), and Hortus Botanicus TU Botanical Garden. During our 45 minute canal boat tour, we learned more fascinating history about Delft, founded in 1075.
Traveler’s Tip: Delft should definitely be on anyone’s list of places to visit for at least an overnight.
Eastern Gate .- Built in 1400
Our only mishap during the trip was our medium rollaway breaking down completely in our final days of travel. We used rope to keep things together until Phil provided us with an extra suitcase he no longer needed.
Getting Home with the Help of a Borrowed Bag
Traveler’s Tip: In general, European airlines have even more strict luggage size restrictions than most US carriers. Before leaving home, make sure all of your luggage is in good condition and meets European carry-on limits to avoid the extra $100 to check bags. If you are taking multiple flights, the additional fees can add up quickly.
All in all, our trip spanned over three weeks and we could have stayed longer. September is a perfect time of the year to visit Switzerland, Vienna, and the Netherlands.
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