Switzerland by Train: Luzern, Gimmelwald, Zermatt, and Pontresina - Simply Magical

Magnet #37

First Stop - Luzern

In early 2018 when I asked my world traveling, experienced hiker friend, Geraldine, “What is the most fantastic hiking destination you’ve ever been to?”, she quickly responded, “Zermatt, Switzerland. It’s the ONLY place I visited twice”. The next week, Geraldine showed me her scrapbooks. Looking at her stunning photos, I knew instantly where I wanted to go for my next adventure —--Switzerland!!!!

Geraldine and I reminiscing in 2023

Quickly, I ordered Rick Steves Switzerland Eighth Edition, published in 2016. Flipping through the chapters I wondered, “How am I ever going to be able to figure out how to plan this trip?” The options seemed endless.

Is Switzerland for you? If you love trains, mountains, chocolate, challenging hiking opportunities, incredibly stunning vistas, and did I mention chocolate?, Switzerland is definitely for you! But trust me, don’t wait too long. Why?

Traveler’s Tip: Traveling in Switzerland can be physically challenging. As soon as you see your first tourist being escorted around in a cast and wheelchair, you’ll understand how important it is to respect your body’s limitations.

First decision for any trip planner —- how to get around.

Swiss trains are notorious for being comfortable, fast and arriving and departing with infallible precision. Why rent a car when Switzerland’s main highlights are accessible by trains, funiculars, and high flying cable cars. I quickly discovered how easy it is to choose a circuitous train route from any large Swiss city. For this trip, I decided to start and end in Zurich, well located for travel to and from the US as well as from countless European destinations.

I read Rick Steves’ book several times cover to cover, highlighting “must see” stops. Using the train map, I soon had an itinerary covering 11 days. Considering my time limits, the 8 day Swiss Rail Pass made the most sense. With our first stop, Luzern, so close to Zurich, it appeared we wouldn’t have to activate our pass until leaving Luzern on day 3.

At check in at our slightly bohemian Hotel Beau Sejour, we received a nice surprise, besides an antique room key, too large to lose.

The desk clerk also presented us with complimentary bus passes to use throughout Luzern. We knew about the complimentary breakfast, lake views, and spaciousness of the guest rooms, but the pass meant less hassle and money saved - a win-win!

Travelers Tip: Be sure to ask if your hotel offers free transit or museum passes. This information is not necessarily found on the hotel’s website.

Any guidebook will list the obvious things to do while visiting Luzern. Here are a few “off the beaten track” suggestions we discovered just by wandering around this charming city.

After visiting the Lion Monument (sculptured in 1820-21 to honor the Swiss guards slaughtered during the French Revolution), look for an almost hidden path further up the hill to the left that takes you along the remains of the Musegg medieval wall. You are rewarded with the opportunity to climb to the top of a 15th century clock tower.

Maybe a bit out of breath and hungry by now, look to your right to see what I like to describe as “Cinderella’s Castle”. In reality it is the Chateau Gutsch, accessible to pedestrians by funicular.

Lake Luzern

Luzern has a plethora of expensive watch shops such as Bucherer, Rolex, Longines, etc.; but my budget allowed me to only window shop at these stores. Frustrated because I wished to buy a souvenir watch, I asked around where I could purchase a good, affordable Swiss watch. I was directed to Swiss Corner Fresco (near the Lion Monument) where I discovered an entire case of gorgeous watches made by Jowissa.

Never having heard of Jowissa, I asked the shop owner, Claudio, if the watches are of good quality. Claudio informed me that the watchmaker who started his own company in 1951, created his first timepieces in his own home. Claudio assured me that Jowissa watches are as well made as any Swiss watch. I’ve been wearing the emerald green and gold wristwatch I purchased that day for under $200 for five years now. My treasured “souvenir” still looks new and keeps perfect time.

For an outstanding dining experience in Luzern, plan ahead and dine at Restaurant Balances. To this day, this local mid priced restaurant remains one of my top three dining experiences —ever! Not only is the food delicious (I had the veal chop, Pete had the bratwurst), the service is like none we’d ever experienced.

Traveler’s Tip: Restaurant Balances, located in the Hotel Balances books up fast! A local favorite; the impeccable service and delicious food and wine prove why.

Our Guide, Ralf - the Nightwatchman

If you are a history lover, be sure to take an evening Nightwatchman tour with Ralf. Greeting us at dusk in his black cloak and felt hat, Ralf kept us so engaged during our 1 ½ hour walking tour, we literally felt transported to the medieval days when Luzern’s 14th century Chapel Bridge stood new.

Traveler’s Tip: Be sure to also visit Luzern’s Spreuer’s Bridge where you can view Meglinger’s Danse Macabre series of paintings created between 1625 and 1635. Fabulous!!

Next stop on the Swiss Rail journey? My family's most magical spot in Switzerland (and a favorite of Rick Steves). I'll give you a multiple choice:

1) Geneva

2) Lausanne

3) Gimmelwald

4) Interlaken

Stay tuned for part 2 of "Switzerland 2018" for the answer