The most ambitious solo trip I’ve taken to date is a combined Paris, London two week odyssey in the summer of 2017. In the previous 18 months, I lost both parents, my mother in law, and waved goodbye to both sons leaving for faraway new homes. It seemed the perfect time to really stretch my trip planning abilities. And try new things like — Airbnb.
But first, I needed a good guidebook and once again, Rick Steves’ Paris 2017 and Pocket London suited my needs perfectly.
Traveling in 2017- the basics: guides, a diary and my trusty Windows phone-with no data?
First decision after buying airfare – where to stay?
It proved a cinch to choose a neighborhood in Paris. Knowing the landmark I wished to visit the most, I searched Airbnb for lodging in the 4th arrondissement, close to Notre Dame and Boulevard St. Germaine. Up popped what seemed like a million choices. After narrowing my search to match my budget, the list became much more manageable.
Notre Dame 2017
The view of Notre Dame from my airbnb apartment window
My eyes spied an apartment described as “With a view of the Seine”, located close to Notre Dame. Even better, the second floor corner apartment featured two bedrooms, three beds, a fully equipped kitchen, and a large private bath. After submitting my request to the apartment's owner; within hours, she notified me that I had a Paris apartment to call my own for a week!
Instead of giving a blow by blow of my week in the beautiful City of Lights, how about I get to the nitty gritty? So here goes---my top ten tips when traveling in Paris:
1. Streets in Paris are usually marked on ornamental plaques attached to buildings. I wandered around hopefully lost when I first arrived. Instead of looking for American type street pole signs, look up about 12 feet for signage placed directly ON the buildings at street corners.
If you are staying more than a few days, I suggest you purchase a weekly pass called a Navigo (you can buy individual tickets for shorter visits). The chip enabled Navigo is good for traveling all over Paris including outside regions such as Chateaux Versailles and the airport. Before purchasing your Navigo pass at any of the major Metro stops, you must provide a photo booth style pic of yourself (these booths are located at many major Metro stations, Gard Nord train depot, as well as at Charles de Gaulle airport). You can bring a passport photo from home as long as it is fairly recent. Of course the first booth I found was broken, taking my 5 euros. Fortunately the adjacent second booth spit out a good enough photo allowing me to proceed to the ticket counter where an agent completed my purchase. Going through the hassle was certainly worth the ease of moving around Paris via the Metro and buses with a quick scan of my pass.
The French appreciate any attempt to communicate in their language. Prior to my visit, I used the Pimsleur method to brush up on my basic French skills. Five years later, I’m using Duolingo. If nothing else, ingrain the words “merci” (thank you), “pardon” (excuse me), and “bonjour” (hello) in your mind. It’s amazing how much more kind and responsive store clerks and restaurant maitre d’s may become when approached with a polite salutation, even with a horrible American accent.
When choosing an Airbnb, be sure to pay attention to the apartment details such as; is it furnished well or just barely? Since I expected a group of four guests for two nights, I was thrilled to find a two bedroom apt with an additional living room futon to serve as my bed. Unfortunately, I didn’t notice in the online photographs that the apartment had virtually no comfortable seating beyond the lumpy futon and hard, mismatched dining chairs. Also, if you travel in the summer and A/C is vital, be sure to confirm your lodging’s situation. Many hotels and homes in Europe do not have central air. Lastly, as I found out in Basel, Switzerland in 2022, bedroom fans are not necessarily a given either.
"Living" in my airbnb Paris apartment (tv was broken)
Pickpocketing is a city sport in Paris. Valuables should be zipped up inside a cross body bag. Men should keep wallets in their front pockets. Pickpockets often work in pairs. Stay especially alert when walking in crowds or when riding escalators. Before you have time to react, your valuables can be lifted and thrown to an accomplice. If you are approached by strangers (such as a couple asking if you would help with a survey), refuse firmly while keeping your distance to prevent an easy theft of phones, passports and wallets.
Early bird catches the worm. Arrive early for your most desired tourist spots to avoid long lines. Some attractions have numbered tickets with a specific time printed on it so you can return later to avoid the long line. I encountered this process for Notre Dame’s Tower Tour. I arrived early in the morning to jump in line for a time to take the 440 steps to the top of the cathedral later that day. People who did not know about this process totally missed out enjoying the amazing views from the top.***
My spectacular view from the top of a Notre Dame tower
***Big news!!!! The world watched as 860 year old Notre Dame burned on April 15, 2019. For those who wish to once again have the opportunity to tour this spectacular historical cathedral, the reopening is scheduled for December 2024! Oh, what a time to visit Paris!
If your group splits up, plan to meet at a specific landmark. Our group went in two directions agreeing to meet up at the “horse statue” near Notre Dame. It turns out there are multiple horse statues. We found each other eventually but we wasted valuable sightseeing time looking for each other.
Build in plenty of time just walking. There are so many wonderful places to enjoy that aren’t on a tour. I loved people watching in one of the many garden recliners at Luxembourg Gardens. If you have the time, rent a little sailing boat from the kiosk near the shallow pool for a retro one of a kind travel experience.
If someone offers you the chance to stop and enjoy a glass of French bubbly- do!
"Skal" - celebrating bon temps with Danish cousin Mette
Above all, please keep in mind that there are security cameras everywhere! Which leads me to share one of my more colorful travel stories to date.
When I arrived in Paris quite jet lagged, I was so glad that I had booked a room my first night at the lovely Hotel St. Marc on Rue St. Marc. Thinking myself to be quite clever, I reserved the hotel’s small swimming pool for one hour all to myself soon after checking in. After being escorted to the pool by hotel staff, I eagerly immersed myself in the perfectly temperate water. Magically, the tension from the long flight, train and Metro rides, melted away. Hotel St. Marc
Feeling emboldened, I decided to try a little skinny dipping, figuring it was as good a time as ever —-there were no windows, the door to the outer hallway was locked and the experience was billed as “private”. While usually much more modest, swimming sans suit felt quite liberating; quite exhilarating actually. The hour flew by. At the end of my reserved time, I dashed into the restroom a few steps from the pool to put myself back together. It was when I closed the door that I saw the sign - WARNING - Security cameras are in use!
I burst out laughing! Shy me had just skinny dipped in front of possibly a whole security team. I was too jet lagged and relaxed to care one iota. Of course, when I looked, I easily spotted the camera above the pool but it was certainly too late to fret. When I inquired, front desk management reassured me that no one actually looks at the camera’s footage (unless in case of an emergency I suppose). Maybe they just said that to make me feel better?
Nevertheless, my avant garde experience was fun as heck and seven years later, I still laugh at myself remembering.
Viva la France!!
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