Ever wondered how easy or hard it is to plan a trip to Europe yourself?
When Phil left North Dakota to start a new life in Groningen, Netherlands in 2016, travel opportunities took on a whole new scope, with a much larger picture.
This particular trip is when it all started; hard core trip planning. From here on, I vowed to book trip details myself whenever possible including airfare, hotels, excursions and dining reservations.
By 2016, I had in my possession four airline credit cards. Some travel sites question the value of having an airline card. My answer? If you travel by plane, then by all means, have at least one. You’ll pay the yearly fee in no time when you check your bags for free. Miles rack up quickly if you use your card regularly. During the seven years Phil lived in North Dakota, we paid for his airfare with cash once.
For this 2016 trip, I had enough miles on my Delta American Express (Amex) to fly free from Philadelphia to Amsterdam. The only hitch—Delta offers no non-stops to “the Venice of the North” from Philadelphia. On the delta website, I booked my journey with a layover in Atlanta, ensuring plenty of time between flights to reduce my personal stress level.
I like Delta airlines. Their planes are comfortable, clean, and usually fly on time. Generally, customer service agents and flight attendants are very friendly and outwardly appear to enjoy their job.
Refillable transit cards make traveling by bus or train very easy in the Netherlands
This solo trip was my first experience in figuring out European train schedules. Phil tutored me beforehand how to buy train fare using easy to locate kiosks. Just as he reassured me, instructions are available in English with the push of a button.
Amsterdam Centraal is beautifully laid out. It’s busy and quite large but directional signage is easy to find and follow. Located behind the escalators, there ARE modern elevators I recommend you take if your luggage is larger than a medium rollaway. A shame I didn’t look hard enough this trip. I’m lucky to have not broken my neck as I bumbled more or less down the escalator with a large AND medium suitcase in tow, plus a personal item strapped across my body.
Things to keep in mind when traveling on Dutch trains; many have steps and heavy glass swinging doors to negotiate. It’s also considered a no-no for strangers to help you handle your luggage. Looking helpless probably won’t help either. Whenever possible, bring only what you can handle alone. I was lugging the last of Phil’s possessions from the US; hence the bulky load. As I clumsily secured my bags, I noted to self, “Next time Ellen, pack light!”.
Once seated you are in real a real treat!. Dutch trains smoothly glide rather than chug down the rails. Though fatigued from the long journey, I instantly fell in love with my son’s new country. I marveled at seeing my first windmills, the multitude of orderly canals, and charming villages seemingly plucked right out of a Hans Christian Anderson fairy tale.
Despite my bravery however; I felt immensely relieved to see Phil when I stepped off the train at my final destination, 14 hours after departing Philadelphia.
Flowers and Art abound inside and out throughout the Netherlands
Groningen (pronounced Groh+ning+uhn, more or less), is a charming city. Home to a world class university and medical school, it’s a young, student filled community. Phil told me right off the bat, “Sorry Mom, you probably won’t be allowed into the night clubs at night. You’re too old”.
Whaaat ????? Was I really TOO old? Apparently anyone over 35 is considered "ancient". Hmmmm.
No worries about the night life, there is so much to explore by foot and bicycle
And about the Dutch and their bikes!! 2/3rds of the population travel on two wheels. I saw several moms cycling with three children in tow, on the same bicycle! In the visits since, I’ve never seen a bike accident. Clearly the Dutch ``have a handle” on their biking skills.
The parking lot on a typical evening in Groningen
After my four day visit to Groningen, Phil and I took a short KLM flight to Copenhagen out of Amsterdam. Once again, having the Delta Amex card came in handy when my large suitcase was checked for free (Delta and KLM are worldwide partners).
I can’t say enough great things about Copenhagen. After four visits, each has been magical in its own way. This time, Phil and I toured Kronborg Castle, the National Museum and tower, and dined at the Michelin rated Formel B (outstanding food, wine,and service). Best of all, we spent time enjoying the company of our Danish cousins.
Shhhhh - you don't want to wake the sleeping Holger the Dane in Kronborg Castle
In the pouring rain, I snapped a selfie standing close to sculptor Edvard Eriksen's Little Mermaid. Just months ago, I found a photo of my mother, Else Matthews, taken on a nicer day, near the same spot sometime in the 1950's.
Phil and I stayed two nights in Copenhagen at the charming Absalon Hotel. Finding it on TripAdvisor, the inn proved to be a winner. Breakfast was delicious, our rooms were comfortable, and I especially appreciated the heated bathroom floor. Reasonably priced, I highly recommend the Absalon; a third generation family owned hotel close to Copenhagen Central Station.
After returning to Amsterdam, Phil and I stayed overnight at the Banks Mansion. Folks, this is one great hotel! The Art Deco rooms are plush, spacious, and have a fun retro mini bar included in the room rate. Happy hour in the main lobby includes canapes and a variety of wine, beer, and spirits. The delicious breakfast is cooked to order. Finally, Banks is perfectly located; a short walk to many of the major museums and great restaurants.
On this mother/son visit, we braved Amsterdam’s Torture Museum. It’s ….interesting. Most of the displays left me squirming a bit, feeling very relieved that most medieval punishments of the type remained in the Middle Ages. I enjoyed seeing Rembrandt’s Night Watch at the world famous RijksMuseum more.
Enjoying one of the many exhibitions at the RijksMuseum
Traveling again by train, Phil and I visited the city of Maastricht, its ancient roots extending to Roman times. We toured the impressive St. Servaas Basilica, a 10th century Roman Catholic church featuring the vast treasury of St. Servaas, a patron “Ice Saint” of the city. A highlight - the display of St. Servaas’ elbow—in gold.
Now that's an elbow!
Too soon, it was time to say goodbye to son Phil and return home. Again, my flights, with the connection in Atlanta, went smoothly. Hooked by the travel bug even more, I immediately set to work on my laptop planning a return visit.
I highly recommend visiting the Netherlands; amazingly one third of the nation lies below sea level. The beautiful country is filled with countless Dutch wonderlands filled with fascinating history, amazing floral displays, spectacular architecture, and yes, lots and lots of water.
I love how you talk about the country where I was born.