In August 2022, Pete and I finally packed for our much anticipated Canadian Rockies rail/driving trip first booked in June of 2019. I’m not sure it’s a “trip of a lifetime” but we enjoyed many highlights.
And a few “low lights” to mention for your own Canadian Rockies vacation planning.
"Come fly with me” before I say "All Aboard".
Living in the Northeast comes with many perks including the convenience of being so close to several international airports. To begin this trip, Pete and I flew Air Canada out of Newark, New Jersey to Vancouver, Canada; my first time flying the airline. And hopefully, my last.
For our six plus hour international flight Air Canada offered no food service. In addition, all beverages other than a cup of water cost extra. Although our flight attendants were friendly, they came through only once with small cups and still water before taking a seat for the rest of the flight. Given that it was an international flight, I stupidly assumed some morsel of food would be available but, alas, we weren't offered a bag of pretzels. I had no idea Air Canada was such a bare bones airline.
Vancouver is lovely but we found two full days is more than enough time to visit. I do highly recommend taking the ferry to Butchart Gardens on Vancouver Island where you can easily spend an entire fun filled day.
Back in Vancouver, hop on the adorable mini ferry to the restaurant filled Granville Bridge area.
If it’s not too hot, walk the paths of Stanley Park (bring water!). For added fun, taxi to Gastown where you can see the beguiling Gastown Steam Clock do its thing.
Finally, the day of our train trip had arrived. From hence forward, we were in the capable hands of my travel agency, Vancouver based Fresh Tracks.
And lest we forget that Covid restrictions were still trying to foil vacations, Canadian officials were still randomly testing visitors. Masking was still mandatory on planes, in common areas of our train, and in congested indoor areas. Would this ever end!!???
On August 15, Fresh Tracks arranged for a driver to deliver us to the Union Pacific Railroad Station from our sleek Sheraton Wall Center hotel. After a short wait, we were escorted to our sleeper car where I gasped in delight. VIA rail still operated vintage sleeper rail cars from the American 1950's!!! Pete and I immediately immersed ourselves in the retro style of traveling. If you have the chance and love trains, book a VIA rail sleeper getaway; and soon. VIA threatens to replace these stainless steel treasures with modern, less historical sleeping cars anytime now.
Upon arrival in Jasper, Alberta, Pete and I easily completed the paperwork for our week-long car rental. We drove to the nearby Pyramid Lake Resort where we checked into a lovely cabin complete with full kitchen, balcony, and fantastic views of Pyramid Lake. My only gripe here was the cost of canoe rentals ($80/hr).
While in Jasper, Pete and I were recommended to hike the Maligne Canyon trails. The gorgeous park showcasing spectacular waterfalls and charming bridges turned out to be a trip highlight. A close second was our hike to Pyramid Lookout.
Travelers Tip: When driving between Jasper and Lake Louise, take a few hours and experience the Columbia Glacier Experience before the rapidly disappearing glacier totally disappears. Taking a ride on the rare Ice Explorers is safe excitement on wheels.
In Lake Louise, we stayed at the tony Post Hotel. I personally chose the hotel over Fresh Track's suggested hotel list. I should have stuck with their recommendations. The Post is expensive and frankly, overpriced. Our scenic view room (450 Canadian/night) looked over the parking lot. On our second morning, Pete noticed a stain on our comforter which could only be described as "gross" (When management was alerted, we were treated to breakfast; a nice gesture but overall our impression of this luxury property is forever marred.
Travelers Tip: Check your bedding before tucking in for the night. Many hotels now offer only a comforter on top of a fitted sheet on guest beds. As we learned, comforter covers are not always washed between guests.
Because of Covid restrictions, we couldn't get close to Lake Louise (The Fairmont Lake Louise only allowed registered guests to enter their hotel directly situated on the lake). Instead we enjoyed a delightful stroll alongside a bit less crowded Moraine Lake. Again, canoe rental prices were an outrageous ($125/hr).
Traveler's Tip: You don't need a canoe to enjoy the constant barrage of stunning scenery in the Canadian Rockies.
Our last stop was Banff, in Alberta province. It is here where I I discovered my most favorite hotel ever ----
I fell under its spell the moment we approached the port cochere for check in. Though we walked into town once (again too crowded), I had no desire to leave my castle. Between the hot tubs, heated pools, incredible shopping, and delightful restaurant offerings, Banff Springs far surpassed any expectation.
There is even a hidden speakeasy "behind the books" ( I'll let you discover where) for the more adventurous. I lived in a fairy tale for 48 hours and loved every minute.
During our last day, we took a boat ride on glacial Lake Minnewanka arranged by Fresh Tracks.
It was early to bed for a 5 am wake up before our two hour drive to the Calgary Airport to catch our flight back to Philadelphia via Montreal.
Travelers Tip: We experienced thick fog during our drive to Calgary. Give yourself plenty of time and check the weather before you drive out of the mountains.
If you desire to see the Canadian Rockies, you can easily plan your own trip, maybe use this blog post as a template.
If doing all the legwork isn't your cup of tea, I highly recommend Fresh Tracks. I can't say enough good things about the travel agency. As Covid restrictions continued to push back our travel dates, my agents worked tirelessly to keep our itinerary in perfect order.
Just maybe, I'll start using travel agencies more in the future?
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