New Orleans, quite the town.
When birthday boy Pete said he’d like to spend his 61st in NOLA , I too thought it could be a great place to get away from the dreary weather Philly usually sees in February.
This time, we’d dedicate the whole getaway to a big stay in New Orleans. The timing was perfect to take in Mardi Gras parades, the best cajun food in the country, and mellow out on some soul thumping jazz to certainly chase away the winter blues.
After carefully reading boat loads of Trip Advisor reviews, I chose the historic Pontchartrain Hotel for our four night stay. Located on St. Charles Avenue, the hotel, completed in 1927, first opened as an apartment building.
The Pontchartrain Hotel - NOLA
Learning this now helps explain its quirks.
There are no ice machines, mini fridges, or coffee makers for that matter in the rooms at the Pontchartrain. The elegant and quite spacious accommodations offer quiet luxury straight out of a Gatsby movie but keep in mind, this historic hotel is not a Hampton Inn.
Travelers Tip: The Pontchartrain Hotel is lovely and in my opinion is intended for adults. While the trolley is just outside its door; with no indoor pool, or nearby kid friendly attractions, reserve this luxury hotel for girls getaways and romantic weekends.
Great view of New Orleans at the roof top bar Hot Tin
If you especially desire romance, this is the hotel for you. Pete and I spent cocktail hours on the rooftop bar called the Hot Tin, a place to see and be seen. Feel free to don your fanciest cocktail dress to help blend in with the multiple groups of bachelorettes all dolled up to celebrate the last days of a bride’s single hood. Its quiet location also provides a wonderful escape from the intensity of Bourbon Street.
Not too sure about the dress code
We celebrated “61” at Restaurant August. I give it a “B”. Located in the warehouse district, we’ve enjoyed better food and service for the money. We walked "home" via the late evening parade route which certainly always promises lively entertainment, and beads.
J Collect beads at one of the many Mardi Gras parades
Instead, I highly recommend Jacque Imo’s Cafe located at 8324 Oak Street. . Not having a car, we rode the trolley as close as we could before walking the last blocks to this charming house converted to artsy cajun eatery.
Traveler’s Tip: Jauque’s is a huge local favorite and doesn’t take reservations for parties less than five. Arrive early to capture a table. It’s well worth the effort.
Breakfast at Brennans is a definite must. This is THE spot to indulge in a hurricane and their famous creole cuisine.
Traveler’s Tip: Brennans is famous for its enduring old world elegant feel, impeccable service, and the restaurant’s not to be missed original Bananas Foster and Eggs Hussarde
Up the street? --- Best omelet “ever” was enjoyed at Oceana Grill located at 739 Conti Street.
Music of course is everywhere in New Orleans. Besides dropping in on several jumping music venues, Pete and I took in a Ghost Tour (which didn’t deliver any thrills or chills). More interesting, we strolled along the mighty Mississippi where we created our own ghost tour. At the time stood many haunted looking remnants of still ruined buildings post Katrina (2005)
On a sad note, it was during our stay that the historic Montgomery - Grace home with ties to the Carnival Rex Organization burned on Feb 20, 2019.
Ruins of the Montgomery-Grace mansion on St. Charles
After hearing multiple sirens in the early morning hours (I first thought there must have been some horrible crime spree), Pete and I strolled down several blocks from our hotel to watch with great sadness the end of the gorgeous antebellum mansion, more than 150 years old. A tradition going back decades, it was at this mansion where the Mardi Gras parade route delivered Rex, King of Carnival, to celebrate a toast with the mansion's residents through the decades. We learned while watching the flames engulf the second story that the fire started in the basement where pool chemicals were thought to be stored. I wonder what has happened to the property today at 2525 St. Charles Avenue. The family vowed to rebuild. I think it would be worth the trolley ride from downtown to check it out today.
With time to kill on our last afternoon, we took the trolley downtown where I more or less dragged Pete into Rubensteins clothing store. After learning that he could have a beer while trying on clothes, he reluctantly agreed to check out their suits. I can't say enough wonderful things about the store and its employees. Our clerk ever so helpful and patient, Pete found a suit he liked enough to have tailored before the store shipped it to us in Philadelphia. If ever in New Orleans, I highly recommend your checking out Rubensteins, especially if you need to update your suit collection (aka, get rid of those baggy panted mens suits).
`We enjoyed our return visit to New Orleans, certainly having come back from Katrina better than ever. I”m not sure I personally need to return again. There’s still a spooky eeriness permeating the city, possibly related to its long history of ties to the spirit world. Voodoo or not, New Orleans can cast its spell on any tourist who loves hot jazz, incredible cuisine, and good ole Southern hospitality.
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