Zermatt - This magnet says it all
Switzerland - Part 2
Zermatt's Matterhorn
Pete and I spent four additional nights in Switzerland. The beauty is indescribable. With that given, I’ll pass along some handy travel lessons we learned the hard way during our visit.
Zermatt is just as magical as friend Geraldine described it to be. We hiked to the tip of a glacier, braved a crossing on the Hangebrucke Suspension Bridge, and enjoyed our cog train ride to Gornergrat.
Gornergrat
Our last Swiss stop, Pontresina, also proved to be an amazing hiking destination. Ride the funicular up to the start of the Panoramic Trail where you’ll follow a path along the connected mountaintops before descending back to town on a chairlift. We rated this hike as our favorite of the entire trip.
The funicular taking you to the start of Pontresina's Panoramic Trail
There were two embarrassing mistakes along the way. To hopefully prevent you from appearing as the “stupid traveler”, I’m sharing—--
Zermatt’s Hotel Berghof is charming. The hotel's spa is incredible; designed for all seasons. Expansive, it features two pools, saunas, and the most adorable lion that spits out ice for swollen body parts. It was here I learned:
You are to enter Swiss saunas nude, NO SWIMSUITS! I got a good reaming (in German) from a naked fellow lady guest who let me know that I was not dressed (or undressed as it were) appropriately. We confirmed at the front desk the "no suits" norm ( suits are unhygienic) throughout Switzerland.
1. Zermatt’s Restaurant Sonnmatten is a local favorite. We learned about this hidden gem from a bartender at the very cool Bar 55 in town. Too late to make a reservation, we lucked out and were seated quickly. The maitre d’ ended up bringing a second table because of the amount of FANTASTIC schnitzel we ordered (and finished off).
Gets my vote for "Best Schnitzel in the World"
No hiking gear when dining at Sonnmatten.. Pete and I were surrounded by the most well dressed men and women we encountered all trip. Thank goodness we packed one outfit for such an occasion.
2. On the train, 2nd class is 2nd class, you must always pay extra to spend any time in a 1st class car.
For our day-long cross country train ride on the Glacier Express (known as the world's slowest “express train”), I purchased dining reservations in the 1st class car while traveling from Zermatt to Samedan. The tickets were expensive so I assumed the cost covered a seat and lunch. When I checked in at the ticket counter in Zermatt, I asked if our seats were in first class and was assured, our tickets were good. However, before lunch arrived, the train conductor examined Pete’s and my Swiss Passes (for 2nd class seats) and quite vocally declared that we needed to move back to 2nd class (even though I had pre-purchased our expensive dining reservations). With the entire 1st class car watching while I tried to figure out where I had gotten things so wrong, it seemed easier to produce my credit card and pay for the upgraded seats. All in all, that train ride and lunch cost us well over $300.
Traveler’s Tip: The Glacier Express offers amazing views, but save your money and ride in 2nd class. Bring your own picnic and a bottle of wine. Amtrak’s food is better than what we were served.
3) Speaking of picnics, we countered the high cost of lodging and meals by staying at hotels which offered breakfast. We purchased sandwiches and beverages for midday at the COOP. The food is fresh, not expensive, and the variety will please any palette. COOPs are located all over the Netherlands as well. We LOVE “the COOP”.
4) Pontresina’s The Hotel Walther is expensive but worth it!!! Unknowingly, we arrived on the day of the managers reception where 3rd generation owners, Tom and Anne-Rose Walther, greeted us personally (Peter and I felt like movie stars). One hour after checking in, we were treated to live piano music and champagne! Yes, guide books give The Hotel Walther $$$$. You’ll find, however; that the level of attention and service, along with the amazing morning breakfasts (think more champagne along with salmon, and tables of meats, eggs, and breads), complimentary evening live music and dancing, make The Walther literally stand above any hotel in the area.
Pontresina's Hotel Walther
My friend Geraldine is correct; Switzerland is spectacularly beautiful, especially her favorite Zermatt. I highly, highly recommend you visit soon, before glaciers disappear. We stumbled upon a delightful couple on the Panoramic Trail in Pontresina who have lived in Switzerland all their lives. His good looks and charm reminded me of Christopher Plummer in The Sound of Music. While his beautiful wife picked wild blueberries by the path, he pointed out a distant glacier he declared is rapidly receding, like so many others.
A Perfect Day on the Panoramic Trail
I’m fearful “Seize the Day” has more meaning than ever for all of us travelers, wherever we may be adventuring. But just like Geraldine, Switzerland turned out to be a country we couldn’t wait to visit again.
Thank you Geraldine !!!
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